2 Nights Thru the Dismal Swamp
Stats for May 25, 2019
Origin: Manteo Free Wall
Destination: Turners Cut Anchorage
Distance: 61.4 miles
Speed: 8 mph
Time on the Move: 7 hours and 29 minutes
We planned to stop in Elizabeth City for some of the afternoon because we heard some great things about the area. 1-they have a free wall. 2-there is a brewery closeby 3-it is a nice stop on the way to the lock to enter the Dismal Swamp.
On the way, we passed by an old Naval blimp airdock from WWII in Weeksville. This is where they housed the blimps that patrolled the NC coastline looking for German U-boats. The hangar is over 1,000 feet long, 150 feet high, and 300 feet wide. HUGE!! And FASCINATING!!


We passed through a drawbridge in the middle of town and got tied up on our 2nd choice of free docks. Unfortunately the dock with the easiest access was full, so we went to our 2nd choice. It turns out that there are gates to the business next to this free dock that lock when the business closes, cutting off access to your boat. Thank goodness one of the workers came out and told us that or we would have been truly homeless for the night!! We had about 3 hours until we needed to get back to the boat, so we went to go find the brewery.

After walking through town, we found that the brewery was closed until 4:00. On a Saturday!! That was after the time we needed to be back to the boat, so we headed to a different restaurant and were not impressed by the cleanliness or the food. Bummer. I would have much rather saved my money and ate on the boat.
Then I wanted to go to the museum, but I was overruled because the kids wanted to go to a splash pad I found on my map app. It was quite a walk and kind of small when we got there, but we made the most of it. Mike took us for ice cream cones to make the walk back to the boat a little easier.

Overall, our experience in Elizabeth City was a bust. We had high hopes, but it just didn’t turn out to be all that great for us. Ah well, can’t complain about ice cream and a splash pad, I guess.
Mid-afternoon, we left the dock and headed towards the mouth of the Dismal Swamp. The Dismal Swamp is a hand-dug canal dating back to the early 1800’s. It took slaves 12 years to dig the 22 mile long trench in very rough conditions. Between the heat, bugs, swamp, and wild animals such as bears, bobcats, and snakes, I don’t think working on the canal was a prized work assignment. It is a fascinating area though. I did some research on the swamp as we went through and learned that it was a safe haven for thousands of Native Americans and escaped slaves throughout the years because the harsh conditions meant that they were unlikely to be discovered.

The swamp has a lock at the beginning and the end that only open 4 times a day, meaning that you need to really plan your arrival carefully. We chose to get pretty close to the first lock after leaving Elizabeth City with the plan that we would lock through with the 8:00 lock in the morning.
Driving towards our anchorage, we passed through narrow channels with towering trees, calm brown water, and little civilization. It was absolutely beautiful and felt like we were completely isolated from people.





Mike got about 3 miles from the lock and just dropped the anchor in the middle of the channel since the locks were closed for the day, meaning no other boats would be passing through here. Then, we figured we’d be moving before the first locks the next day, so we would be out of the way for new boats coming through. Even knowing no other boats would be coming through, it felt weird to be right in the middle of the river, but it sure was beautiful.




Colin has been making baskets since we left St. Augustine, where he first saw a park ranger making them. He finished his 3rd basket underway today and we were all impressed by how well he’s doing!! He just uses pine needles and string. I love that he is creative and confidant enough to try new things and then try, try again to make them even better.


Our night was very calm and relaxing. Until we climbed into bed. Then, all of a sudden we heard some scratching in the back of the boat that had us scrambling out of bed to see what it was. It seems that our boat was very slowly spinning with the changing of the current and we were scraping against the branches and bushes along the shore. Not exactly an ideal situation for the inflatable dinghy or the unprotected props, not to mention the plastic windows. Mike pulled in the windlass a little to move us closer to the center of the channel and that helped just enough that we squeaked past the trees and swung around facing the other direction. Originally Mike told me to go out there on the bow to pull up the windlass and I told him “no way!” There was no way I was going out on the bow in the swamp at night. With those branches touching our boat, who knows if any snakes or creepy crawlies were out there?! Luckily, that was the end of the excitement for that day.
Stats for May 26, 2019
Origin: Turner’s Cut
Destination: Top Rack Marina
Distance:
Speed: 5.9 mph
Time on the Move: 5 hours and 9 minutes BUT FOREVER NOT MOVING
The next morning, we were moving shortly after 7 to make it a few miles down the canal to the first lock for the 8:00 opening. As we neared, Mike called the lockmaster and was told that they didn’t have power and were waiting on a bucket truck with a longer arm to come and reach the transformer. He instructed us to tie up to the dolphins (piles) and he would let us know when he was ready. That was at about 7:50am. It was already 80+ degrees, humid as can be, without a bit of breeze.

It didn’t take long before we were rafted 4 deep in two rows waiting for the power to come back on. Unfortunately the next bucket truck that arrived didn’t have a long enough arm either, so they were waiting on another truck to arrive. It was SO HOT!!

We watched a movie, I blogged, I took a shower, Mike worked out, Mike played his music loud enough to annoy our neighbors, and we all got so frustrated. It was extremely hot and sweaty just sitting around.

FINALLY, we saw a bucket truck working on the transformer and all the boats started to cheer. We were so excited that someone was there helping us.

After a short bit we were cleared to start entering the lock. We hadn’t locked for months and months, but this was a pretty easy lock, so we weren’t too worried. Cramming all the boats into the lock that were waiting took a while and required some rafting up of boats. And finally, we were ready to lock through. The locks were not set up for big boats like ours and the fact that the cleats didn’t have any posts sticking off made it tricky to keep our lines on the post when we were on the high side of the lock. Just a different style with new things to think about. Everyday teaches us something new on this trip, that’s for sure!!

We FINALLY locked through by 1:00pm for the 8:00am lock. 4 hours of waiting in the extreme heat was not how we thought this day would go.
Getting ready for this long awaited day, we were trying to feel like this:

But it was SO HOT we really felt like this:

At this point, we had 2 choices. The swamp is generally traversed at a slow pace, but Mike did NOT want to stay overnight at the visitor’s center, as so many people do, to explore and fully enjoy the swamp. He did NOT want to “get stuck” there any longer than we already had been. Understandable. So that meant that we had 2 1/2 hours to pass the 22 miles to the last lock. Most people travel through at about 5 miles per hour, but we went through at about 9-10 in order to make the last lock.
This fast pace can be bad for several reasons. There are lots of floating trees and logs that boater’s call “dead heads” just below the surface. If you hit one, that is bad for the prop and hull and the faster you’re going, the bigger the problem it is. Also, the scenery is meant to be enjoyed, that is why we chose to go through the swamp. Yet, instead of a nice calm ride, we were just melting, complaining about our long delay, and praying to escape before the afternoon lock closed. Ah well, we enjoyed the trip, just at a faster speed than we had planned.









On our 22 miles through the swamp, we ended up seeing 1 water snake, a few ducks, and a few kayakers. We also hit a few things, but nothing that we think caused any major issues. It was a beautiful trip, but way too hot and much more stressful than we anticipated.
We arrived for the 3:30 lock at about 3:15. It was perfect timing. There was only one other boat in sight. However, the lockmaster decided to wait for all the other boats that got held up by the morning lock fiasco. It was very nice of him, but very frustrating for us because we were left to hold station and idle in place until about 4:30 when he finally locked us through. If we had known they would hold the afternoon lock, we would have gone slower. But at least we would be out of the swamp and moving ahead freely, on our own schedule.

We planned to head right in to Norfolk, but this trip has taught us again and again to be patient and flexible and we were in for another opportunity to practice our skills. When we arrived at one of the railroad bridges along the way to the marinas in Norfolk, it was down. The bridge tender said it was undergoing maintenance, and she wasn’t sure how long it was going to be. We sweated and idled and sweated and idled with about 30 of our closest boat friends, waiting, hoping, pleading for the bridge to go up. Finally, after an hour or so, we gave up and made a new plan. There was a marina about 4 miles the wrong way down the river (closer to where we just came from!) that offered slips with power (AIR CONDITIONING) for just $1/foot, so we headed there. Whew!! AC never felt so good!! I don’t think any of us stepped foot off the boat that night except to plug in the power cords, but we were sure thankful to be there and relaxing in the cool air!


I’m glad we made another plan when we did!
Thank you for following our adventures and reading all about our hot and delayed trip through the Dismal Swamp. Hopefully tomorrow will be a less eventful day!








































































































































































































































